Waiting hurts my soul...
My guess would be that the white powder is there to reduce friction.
DISREGARD THAT, I SUCK COCK!
Apparently my sister managed to break my camera.
SDA Forum
Silver Hawk!
Sticky buttons probably just need cleaning. A Q-Tip and soap water do pretty good once you've got them out.
Anyone who wants to post pictures is welcome in this thread. My goal was to show how to get these things apart and, if possible, try to repair problems.
I've got a working N64 stick now. Its actually a little loose but it doesn't seem to affect gameplay.
Anyone who wants to post pictures is welcome in this thread. My goal was to show how to get these things apart and, if possible, try to repair problems.
I've got a working N64 stick now. Its actually a little loose but it doesn't seem to affect gameplay.
In the infinite
Whenever I shook one of my PS3 contollers, something rattled inside. It sounded like something broke off and was just laying in the bottom of the controller, so I took it apart. Here are the pics:
One of the small white bars fell off of the circuit panel. I couldn't get the r1 and the r2 buttons back on properly so I just got rid of it and bought a new one, which was ok anyway because the buttons and the analogs were sticking anyway. Oh, and this was a sixaxis, not a dualshock.
One of the small white bars fell off of the circuit panel. I couldn't get the r1 and the r2 buttons back on properly so I just got rid of it and bought a new one, which was ok anyway because the buttons and the analogs were sticking anyway. Oh, and this was a sixaxis, not a dualshock.
Like mithical87 suggested, the white powder is actually plastic from the control stick and the parts it connects to that's been worn off over time. In the second to last picture you can see some of the same stuff on the inside of the dark gray plastic piece, which the stick also rubs against. This would also explain why tightening the spring doesn't get rid of slop. To fix the problem, you'd either need to replace one or more of the plastic parts, or find a way to add a bit of thickness to them. I've found a way to fix unresponsive D-pads on Game Boys using some strategically placed tape to tighten up tolerances, but I'm not sure something like that's possible on an N64 analog stick because the parts are so tiny.
Well what do you know, after a little hunting around online, I came across a short instructional video on YouTube showing how to fix (or at least reduce) the problem. 
Here's the link:
Looks like tape actually does work, I just hadn't taken any n64 controllers apart to check it for myself. Judging from some of the comments, though, you might want to go light on the tape, since it's easy to make the stick so tight that it doesn't re-center very well.
Here's the link:
Looks like tape actually does work, I just hadn't taken any n64 controllers apart to check it for myself. Judging from some of the comments, though, you might want to go light on the tape, since it's easy to make the stick so tight that it doesn't re-center very well.
I <3 my Xbrick
These kinds of projects are so cool! If I'd known about this thread I would have taken pictures when I and my girlfriends brother took apart an old NES he'd found in storage to clean (it was bad. You know how the floor of a chicken coop tends to look?It looked like that inside). We had to bypass the lockout chip, which was somehow not recieving the signal from the carts, and play without the top of the console on before we could fix the eh, loader I guess you could call it, but it worked! I could take apart my half-functioning GHWT drum kit, but with it acting up for so many people, I guess most everyone have seen it's guts already 
EDIT: Actually, I already have the(currently nonfunctional) cymbals apart so...
Cover is only secured with 4 small phillips screws...
Two of which go through posts that help hold the circuit board in place. The board is also screwed on to a smaller post underneath with another phillips screw. Here you can also see the piezo-electric sensor which, AFAIU, let's current through when deformed(i.e. when banging on the cymbal to the point of it cracking
)
Blurry closeup of a removed circuit board.It's very simple since it basically just functions as a base to hold the 2.5mm mono audio jack.The wires ARE soldered under the glue, though not very neatly.(Same thing on the piezo sensor)
Underside of the circuit board. Again, blurry, sorry about that. Nothing really interesting to see here.
EDIT: Actually, I already have the(currently nonfunctional) cymbals apart so...
Cover is only secured with 4 small phillips screws...
Two of which go through posts that help hold the circuit board in place. The board is also screwed on to a smaller post underneath with another phillips screw. Here you can also see the piezo-electric sensor which, AFAIU, let's current through when deformed(i.e. when banging on the cymbal to the point of it cracking
Blurry closeup of a removed circuit board.It's very simple since it basically just functions as a base to hold the 2.5mm mono audio jack.The wires ARE soldered under the glue, though not very neatly.(Same thing on the piezo sensor)
Underside of the circuit board. Again, blurry, sorry about that. Nothing really interesting to see here.
Silver Hawk!
The interesting thing about those cymbals and drums is that they are, to a point, actual electronic drums. They basically have the same technology as the early stuff, knowing when you hit them but not much else. Modern electronic drums are much more complex, but some of the principles are the same.
I <3 my Xbrick
Quote from sunburstbasser:
The interesting thing about those cymbals and drums is that they are, to a point, actual electronic drums. They basically have the same technology as the early stuff, knowing when you hit them but not much else. Modern electronic drums are much more complex, but some of the principles are the same.
Yeah, I'm not quite up to disassembling an ION kit but I think it's safe to say they're a wee bit more complicated
I probably won't disassemble the main part of the drums until I can get a new soldering iron so that I can resolder the whole kit in one go (Already had to fix the wiring on the red pad). It's basically the same as the cymbals though, except minus the audio jack. The wires from the sensors all lead directly to a small circuit board which, depending on the sensitivity, will send a signal into what is basically a stripped regular controller,which passes it on to the X-box. The same board accesses the MIDI port and Pedal port(ports? I don't actually know what the top jack is used for) for the drum tuner kit.
General Kong - Bullets and Bananas
*Bump* My boys use my generic bongos to play Jungle Beat since they're so rough.
They finally broke it today, so here's the guts of the bongo controller.
Broken Bongos
They finally broke it today, so here's the guts of the bongo controller.
Broken Bongos
Quote from Heidrage:
Anyone have an idea how to increase the signal output of an NES controller to handle controlling 2 NESs at the same time?
While not necessarily best way, I think that the easiest way would be to not use just one controller, but use two controllers with the buttons of one connected to the buttons of the other. This would require soldering about 9 wires between the two controllers, but would not have to have the signal boosted in any way.
I am unsure if just splicing the the wires together will even work at all, because of the way the nes controller sends button inputs to the console. While I am unsure of how this works exactly, from what I have read, the controller input works basically by the NES repeatedly asking the controller for what the inputs are with the controller then sending those inputs in a short burst of data. If you have two NESs hooked up to one controller, you will have problems with both consoles asking for inputs out of sync, and generally making an absolute mess of things.
Instead of having to deal with that insanity, I thought it would just be easier to work on the physical button part so that when you press one button, not only does it complete the circuit on one controller, but will also do so on the second controller. This method should defenitly work, bur requires you to have two nes controllers with working pcbs. If you are able/willing to do a bit of soldering yourself, I can make a diagram of what to solder where.
Instead of having to deal with that insanity, I thought it would just be easier to work on the physical button part so that when you press one button, not only does it complete the circuit on one controller, but will also do so on the second controller. This method should defenitly work, bur requires you to have two nes controllers with working pcbs. If you are able/willing to do a bit of soldering yourself, I can make a diagram of what to solder where.
Willing to teach you the impossible
Problems you say with how I did it?? No... Just the "left on the D-pad was start... and so was right... and start and select was "B" for both. But "A" worked out just fine... Not to mention both systems crashing from time to time and scared the shit out of me because when I pressed the power button it would not turn off. I thought I fried my console.... But other than that I found out that one of my games has a "sound mode" and I had some fun with that.
If you would be willing, ya, I would be down to almost anything. Carc has a soldering iron and I have plenty of spare controllers.
Edit: <- awesome pic for the first part of my post
If you would be willing, ya, I would be down to almost anything. Carc has a soldering iron and I have plenty of spare controllers.
Edit: <- awesome pic for the first part of my post